Fishing Plastics

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Fishing with plastic lures is probably the most common method of coastal saltwater fishing next to the use of live bait (or fresh dead). You can cast, drift or troll with plastic baits. *Scent enhancers or cut pieces of frozen/defrosted squid can be used for added attraction. They can be rigged Texas/Carolina Style with a hook and a separate sinker, or they can be fished with a lead head. The most common way to fish them is with a lead head. Lead heads come in various weight, hook sizes, colors and “details” (eyes, markings). The lead heads are usually sold separate from the plastic baits. You will usually have to rig them yourself. Set aside one plastic to practice rigging with.

· Kelp Beds: A good place to check for fish activity is in the kelp beds. Bass, rockfish, rays, sharks, croakers and various other game species can regularly be sought out. Plastic lures are ideal for these fishing grounds.

Casting along the kelp line (outside edge of the kelp bed) and locating holes (pot holes) in the kelp to drop plastics through; drop the plastic down paying close attention to any bites that might occur as the plastic is sinking. Be prepared to set the hook if you feel your plastic take a hit on the way down. To set the hook, swing the rod tip up. If you miss on the first attempt, put the reel back in free spool (or open the bale) and allow the plastic to sink again. Sometimes the same fish that hit your lure the first time will come back to hit it a 2nd and even possibly a 3rd time. If you do get bit on the retrieve you'll want to maintain a steady wind (wind through the bites/nibbles).

There are a few methods for swimming plastics when using the vertical approach. One is the “Yo Yo” method. Winding the lure up a little bit and then allowing it to fall back down. This action is good for covering the entire water column. Fish will “pack” at various depths depending on water temperature, clarity and where the bait seems to be holding. Another method is "jigging". Jigging involves raising the rod tip slowly but deliberately up, and then bringing it back down to horizontal. The lure darts upward from raising the rod tip up. The lure's natural flutter action kicks in as it decends. Various freshwater bass techniques for causing subtle and erratic movements that may be utilized as well.

Be prepared for fish to be following bait to the surface. Sometimes a strong surface bite will occur. Watch for the "boils" in the water and cast your plastic over them. The term "boils" refers to the action the water makes when a fish hits the surface. Boils usually occur when the larger fish are chasing the smaller bait fish. Wind your bait through the area the boils were showing.

· Kelp Stringers: Some of the best fishing can be found in this fish oasis. Cast along side or drift past them with the plastic in tow. Again, it all depends on what depth the fish are holding at. Though I usually like to put the plastic on the bottom or very close to it before starting the retrieve. There are a variety of actions you can attempt in various combinations to entice the fish. It’s recommended that most the action you initiate be done with the use of your reel. The winding action produces a nice swimming motion on plastic baits. Alternate various retrieve speeds and work the various depths of the water column.

· Structure: Locating structure can be a good thing when targeting game fish with plastics. Cast to a boiler rock or drift your plastic along the bottom of a reef. "Bounce it" off the bottom, jig it, cast and retrieve; fish can be very aggressive in these rocky and turbulent habitats. Water movement can be extremely swift around these areas. When the fish are enticed they may respond aggressively in order to take advantage of the opportunity.

- Visible Rock Formations and Boiler Rocks

- Reefs (visible and non visible)

- Structure only visible by sonar (reefs, rocks, corral)

Choosing Your Plastic

I don’t think there is an exact science when it comes to choosing the color or pattern of you plastic. What works one day may not work the next. Though there are two things to consider right off the bat that may help in a successful selection. Try matching your plastic to what the fish are currently feeding on. Does the targeted game fish have a known preference for a specific species of bait? What bait is abundant in the area? The next thing to consider is the color or shade of water. With that said, darker days (or time of day) should be fished with darker colors and lighter days should be fished with lighter colors. From there you will have this to consider:

Pattern: sparkles, no sparkles, molding details, lines, etc;

Shape, Type, Model: swim baits, scampi, grubs, etc;

Color: matching to local baitfish and/or water color and lighting

Dark - night, dark skies, dark and/or deeper water.

Blue - anchovies and sardines are in the water.

Orange or Red - crustaceans like crabs in ocean waters and crawdads in fresh water.

Brown - crustaceans and small fish

Green - grunion or bay smelt. Add some flash and this can be a good shad imitator in fresh water.

Size: matching local baitfish, size of fish being targeted (bigger fish, bigger lure)

Lead Head Size/Weight: current (stronger current= heavier weight/lead head), cast distance and target depth should all be considered.

*Adding strips or whole squid to your lure can adversely affect the swimming action. We advise cutting even, thin strips in order to maintain a steady fluttering effect and as well to limit the amount of action that may be hindered by the additional weight.

The Problem With Plastic

There are many types of plastic: polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) and polyvinyl chloride (PVC) are two common examples. Plastic serves a useful role in many aspects of modern life. However, plastic is not ideally suited for recreational fishing lures. Why not?

• Plastic Smells Bad. Predator gamefish -- including largemouth and smallmouth bass, catfish, trout, walleye, crappie, salmon and other species -- have an excellent sense of smell, much more sensitive than that of a human. That's why many soft plastic lure manufacturers sell so-called "scented" plastics. The problem with that is that soft plastic lures are oil-based so they cannot contain the water-based scents that are most effective at attracting fish. Oil and water don't mix. And, spray-on scents can have only limited effectiveness because they quickly wash off in the water.

• Plastic Tastes Bad. As the Associated Press asked in an article about FoodSource Lures, "which would you rather eat, real food or plastic?" When you buy a steak, do you prefer prime rib or plastic? What if someone offered you a plastic steak with salt on it, or sprayed-on scent? Even if a fish bites a soft plastic lure it will spit out the lure the instant it realizes the lure is not a natural food source. As In-Fisherman noted, "what has not received much attention by biomechanics researchers is the mechanics of rejection of an object that is not deemed edible by a bass. Most worm fishermen have sometimes found that it's difficult, almost impossible, to strike back quickly enough to set the hook when a bass rejects a bait." In-Fisherman, "New Research On How Bass Strike," April-May, 2004.

• Plastic Pollutes. Soft plastic lures have been around since the 1950s. So where have 50 years of plastics ended up? Fishermen know that a lot of soft plastic lures are lost or discarded in water or weeds. However, plastic lures are not biodegradable so they'll be on the bottom of lakes and rivers pretty much forever. Some salt-impregnated soft plastic lures actually will expand to many times their original size if left in the water too long. Discarding plastic lures in the water even could be a violation of federal and state anti-pollution laws. FoodSource Lures, on the other hand, do not pollute the environment because they are all food and completely biodegradable. They will dissolve in about three weeks in the water ... unless a fish or other critter grabs them for a meal first.

• Plastic Lures Hurt Fish And Other Wildlife. "People think plastic six-pack rings are the leading cause of wildlife entanglements. Discarded fishing lure is a far greater threat." The Freshwater Society, 2001. "Would a fish survive after ingesting a soft-plastic bait? It didn't always seem likely." Field & Stream, "Better Than Bait?," March 2004. According to Dr. Russell Wright, Fisheries Extension Specialist and Auburn University Assistant Professor of Fisheries and Allied Aquacultures, "a lot of times when a largemouth bass swallows a plastic lure, it jams between the stomach and the small intestine. When that happens, it's over -- the bait can't go either direction and the fish will ultimately starve to death." Unlike soft plastic fishing lures or similar products, fish and other animals can eat, digest and metabolize FoodSource Lures. Tests by Auburn University showed that fish actually grew in size when fed FoodSource Lures.

• Soft Plastic Lures Can Contain Carninogens. Soft plastic lures often contain phthalates (pronounced "THAL-ates"), a plastic softener that is a potentially harmful chemical. (Have your ever wondered why your soft plastic lures melt the plastic in your tackle box?) Harvard University researchers conducted a study that found links between exposure to phthalates and reproductive problems in men. Epidemiology, May 2003. Phthalates also have been linked to cancer, including breast cancer, and asthma in children. As Field & Stream reported, "some scientists are concerned that the carcinogens in plastic can harm a fish if the lure is not passed quickly." Field & Stream, "Better Than Bait?," March 2004

• Great Scent and Great Taste Make For Great Fishing. Scents are important because the more senses you can stimulate, the better your chances. FoodSource Lures, being made completely out of fish food, have all the right scents. Bassmaster magazine says FoodSource Lures "create a natural scent trail in the water." Field & Stream says FoodSource Lures have "the irresistible scent of natural bait." Southern Sporting Journal calls it a "built-in chum trail."

"We at Dream Lake have been commercial bass fishing for seven years with a strict catch-and-release program along with a careful way of handling fish. We do an autopsy on all dead fish over 5 pounds and have found that our #1 killer of bass is soft plastic worms and lizards. We have been waiting for a product like FoodSource Lures for years and it is incredible that these lures are actually digestible and have a protein content that will help fish grow. We hope everyone will start using FoodSource Lures to ensure a better fishing tomorrow." Chad Bracknell, Dream Lake Lodge, Livingston, AL, www.dreamlakelodge.com

"The bottom of Lake Okeechobee is said to be coated with enough soft plastic lures to make a pile large enough to cushion a tank dropped from a plane. In addition to trashing the lake bottom, the discarded plastic is a hazard to fish and wildlife. Avoid turning your home waters into a dumping ground for nonbiodegradable soft plastic lures." Pro tip submitted to FishingHotSpots.com

Soft Plastic

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia


In terms of angling, the term "soft plastic" is used to describe any of a range of silicon-based fishing lures, termed so because of their soft, flexible rubber texture. Designed to imitate fish or other natural aquatic food sources, their realistic texture and versatility, combined with simple and economical production has led them to become a standard article of modern fishing tackle. Soft plastics are available in a large range of colours, sizes and particularly shapes.

History

Soft plastics found their origins in the late 1950s and early 1960s, with small worms and grubs being moulded from hard rubber. The stiff rubber used, as well as the basic shapes produced, did not allow the flexible action and effectiveness of modern soft plastics to be observed. In 1972, lure manufacturer Mister Twister patented the Curly Tail® concept, utilising the flexibility of silicon-based plastic to create a rubber lure with a more lifelike action and vastly improved fish-catching effectiveness. By the early to mid 1980s, high sales volumes of Mister Twister lures prompted many new entrants into the market, with competition soon leading to a broad and diverse selection of soft plastic lures being made available in a range of shapes, colours and sizes.

Uses

The diversity of soft plastic lures has enabled them to be used in many configurations, rigs and with various techniques. The original, and still most commonly seen use of soft plastics is as a simple lure, using a weighted hook known as a jighead. The hook of the jighead is threaded through the lure so that only the gape of the hook, and the eye, are exposed. Methods vary according to the shape of the plastic used, however is it most often cast and retrieved with short, sharp jerky motions applied by the angler through flicking the fishing rod tip. Experienced soft plastic anglers attempt to emulate the natural movement of the animal the soft plastic imitates, such as a prawn, baitfish or crawdad.

Soft plastics are also trolled and jigged in the same method as metal or hardbodied lures, and used as artificial baits in classic real-bait rigs. The many rigs, techniques and uses of soft plastic lures are as varied as the designs, colours and sizes they are available in. Specialised techniques and rigging methods have evolved from anglers targetting specific fish species or in particular areas, such as the Texas rig and Carolina rig.

Modern Variants

Today, soft plastic lures take on many forms and hybrids. Hardbody hybrid lures, with a solid plastic front half and soft plastic tail for lifelike action and appearance, are now common. These hybrids often use treble hooks, diving bibs and other features once restricted to hardbody lures. Concern over the instance of non-biodegradeable plastics being lost in fragile water systems has prompted the creation of organic, biodegradeable lures that retain the flexible, rubbery texture and action of traditional polymer soft plastic lures by tackle manufacturer Berkley. There is much controversy in the angling community regarding the true nature of this new form of organic soft plastic, which has lead to the use of such lures being prohibited in some lure-only angling competitions.

Plastic Worms

By Lynn Burkhead


And then, of course, there's the venerable plastic worm -- the bait that started off this story. For practically everybody from weekend warriors (like yours truly) to young guns looking to make their marks on the tournament trail and legendary pros who've become household names, a Texas-rigged plastic worm is tough to beat at just about any bass water in the South.

Take, for instance, Erik Burns, a young bass angler who spends his fall with the waterfowling clients of his Rugged Duck Outfitters guide service. Between duck seasons, he occupies his spare time during the spring and summer months by targeting big bass, often with a Texas-rigged plastic worm or Ring Fry tied on the end of his line. Unlike me with that 8-inch motor-oil-colored worm described at the top of this piece, Burns prefers at times to downsize his plastic worm offerings.

"I like to go to plastics and finesse-fish with the smaller stuff when the fish aren't as aggressive, when they're about to go shallow, or when they are still suspended and the bigger fish haven't gotten their metabolism up yet," he offered.

Burns will go bigger with the soft plastics under certain circumstances "Later on in the summer, when the fish are deeper, I enjoy flippin' Texas-rigged worms around lily pads and in the pockets and along the edge of hydrilla," he said. "That's when I like to fish bigger worms in the 6- to 8-inch range to go for the big boys."

* * *

Big, small, or somewhere in between, it pays to have your tackle box stocked well this spring with a versatile arsenal of soft-plastic lures in an array of hues like grape, tequila sunrise, red shad, black with a neon-yellow or red-flaked tail, motor oil, and junebug (among others).

Why do you need them? Because when fished at the right time, in the right way, and at the right place, plastic lures could help you land the biggest bass of your angling career.

And when it comes to springtime bass fishing, that's the true power of plastics.

Tubes

By Lynn Burkhead


The soft-plastic tube-style bait is another weapon that Evers keeps a healthy supply of in his tackle box. That's been true since the three-time winner on the BASS circuit experienced some big-bass success during a tournament several years back on Toledo Bend Reservoir. The tactic: flipping a black neon tube into flooded buckbrush.

"They were holding between two pieces of cover," he recalled, "and I would throw it in there, move it as slowly as possible. And I was catching big ones."

Today, fishing tube baits is one of the pro's favored methods for targeting bass. "I think tubes are a great year-round bait, especially spring through fall," Evers remarked. "They're a basic imitation of a crawfish or baitfish, depending on what color you fish."

On the topic of fishing tubes, Evers said, "My favorite way is to use a flippin' technique in the spring. I'll be flippin' bushes, grass, anything that could be spawning cover with a 3/16-ounce or 1/4-ounce Bass Pro XPS Tungsten weight head."

As for the color of the tube itself, Evers usually lets the bass' current feeding habits on shad or crawfish dictate that, although he also likes fishing a black neon tube. Whatever color he's actually using, he'll hook the soft plastic onto the tungsten-weighted jighead's big 4/0 hook sporting an extra-wide gap. Frequently, Evers will also put an XPS Big Tube Rattle into the tube, which he'll cast and retrieve with a 7-foot medium-heavy rod, a high-speed reel, and line in the 20-pound fluorocarbon or 65- to 80-pound Spider Wire range.

The key to fishing this bait, in Evers' view, is to work it slowly -- to the point that, to a shallow springtime bass, it becomes a source of irritation. "I'll flip it in the bushes, let it sit there, hop it up and down, and let it sit there for an extended period of time," he offered. "A lot of times, the fish won't pick it up on the initial fall. But as you leave it in there and hop it up and down, air is coming out of the tube in bubbles as it falls. It's an added attraction for bass."

Evers recommends leaving the tube bait in cover for 10 or 15 seconds, or maybe longer if the bass are locked down to the spawning beds. He'll also leave it a little longer when the water is murky or the bass aren't very aggressive.

While Evers likes to fish a tube bait tight to cover and a little faster as the pre-spawn moves into the spawn, he reminds anglers that such a lure can be an excellent choice later on as well. "It's a great bait in the post-spawn," he observed. "You can flip it into flooded bushes, into other flooded cover. Or bring it closer to surface. Use that rattle, and bang it on branches, and shake it on braches higher in the water column during the post-spawn period."

Jerkbaits and Flukes

By Lynn Burkhead


Evers is also a big fan of fishing soft-plastic jerkbaits and fluke-style baits -- especially as the spawn winds down.

"These are huge in the post-spawn pattern," said the five-time CITGO Bassmaster Classic qualifier. "Bass are starting to feed up on shad again -- that, and bluegills. So those two baits can imitate those really well, plus bass are starting to school.

Evers noted that since these baits imitate shad really well, an angler can skip them up under boat docks and back into tight places. "It is a bait that covers the upper water column," he explained, "and I like to work it in heavy cover," Evers said. "When I fish one of these baits, I'll twitch it side to side. I'll do that two or three times, let it die and fall, then do it another two or three times, and let it die and fall again. They'll typically hit it in between twitches, or when you're letting it die."

When he fishes such a bait, Evers typically rigs up a Bass Pro Shops white or a baby-bass-colored model with a green back with a 4/0 offset round-bend hook; this the pro throws with a high-speed reel spooled with Bass Pro Shops XPS fluorocarbon line in the 12- to 14-pound-test range and mated with a 7-foot medium-action BPS Pro Qualifier rod.

"The high-speed reel is real important in fishing these baits," he explained, "so that you can reel in the slack in a hurry to set the hook."

Lizards

By Lynn Burkhead


Another popular plastic bait for this time of the year is one that BASS pro Edwin Evers puts near the top of his lure list: the versatile lizard, a bait that can elicit a smashing strike from a female on the spawning bed.

"It's a good bait to fish," said Evers, one of the hottest young anglers on the CITGO Bassmaster Pro Tour. "In terms of catching big bass, lizards and salamanders really prey on the eggs that big females lay, so the bigger fish are more apt to eat them. I do get a lot of bites from bigger fish in the spring on lizards."

How much bigger? Evers has caught lots of 8- and 9-pound bass on this type of lure, which he fishes primarily during stable weather conditions.

"With a lizard, I like to keep it on bottom," he offered. "I'll do that by popping it and scurrying it across the bottom, still looking for isolated cover. I usually like a Yum 6-inch lizard in green pumpkin or watermelon colors with a 1/8-ounce weight. I'll fish it Texas-rigged around cover that I can see using a 7-foot All-Star rod in medium-heavy action with a Pflueger President 6:3:1 reel spooled with 14- to 17-pound-test Silver Thread monofilament."

Floating Worms

By Lynn Burkhead


At times, the plastic worms that 2000's B.A.S.S. Angler of the Year, Tim Horton, likes to fish are of a type different from that described in this story's opening.

"In April," Horton offered, "I love to fish floating worms, as you're fishing targets. Since bass spawn around some type of cover that is usually not too thick, it's real important to look for objects that are off to themselves -- maybe not a real thick hydrilla bed, but where there are clumps of grass, or something like that."

The six-time CITGO BASS Masters Classic qualifier successfully used the floating-worm technique in a MegaBucks tournament a few years back on South Carolina's Lake Murray. In fact, more than half of the bass that Horton weighed in at that event came on a floating worm that he was throwing in and around spawning cover.

"The floating worm works really well for that," he explained, "since you can work it through the cover with a more subtle presentation. The floating worm will sink very, very slowly, and in doing so, you can give it some real small twitches, which tantalizes the fish while the worm is in that strike zone."

To give a floating worm that tantalizing action, Horton typically pops his rod tip about 2 to 4 inches, which will actually make the floating worm fold up as the ends come together in the water. "The bait then opens back up," he said, "and when this happens in a short period of time, it can really be enticing to bass."

How does the three-time winner on the BASS circuit rig a floating worm? "I like to use a Yum Houdini worm, which I'll Texas rig with a 4/0 hook," he stated. "Usually I will put a swivel 10 to 12 inches above the hook. My leader will usually be the same pound-test I'm fishing -- something in the 12- to 14-pound monofilament range. As for worm colors, I like yellow, white or a sherbet."

How does the pro angler fish a floating worm setup? "Usually I'll fish it on a bait-casting reel," Horton said. "About the only exception is when I'm trying to get it under overhanging willow trees or trying to skip it around boat docks and get it up under the boat docks. Then I'll use a spinning reel."

According to Horton, you need to keep in mind that strikes on floating worms are generally less aggressive ones -- a bass comes up and quietly sucks the bait in, for instance. "I think it's a reaction strike," he remarked. "A floating worm doesn't really represent a baitfish or crawfish, but maybe a catalpa worm falling out of the trees, or something of that nature."

The Power Of Plastics

Why haul a whole tackle box full of lures to the lake this month when you can get by handily with just this bevy of proven plastic baits?

By Lynn Burkhead


It's forever etched in my memory: sliding across the calm waters of a small lake in an aluminum johnboat, out for an evening bass fishing trip with my angling buddy Scott Cox.

In hopes of catching a largemouth bass -- and maybe, with a little luck, one of the big ones for which this lake was well known -- I tied on a large Texas-rigged plastic worm.

As the shadows gathered, I tossed the worm next to a laydown out of which a few limbs stuck up out of the water. As I the ripples gradually subsided, I began to pump my graphite rod tip up and down so that the 8-inch motor-oil-colored worm would slowly rise and then fall toward the bottom.

Mere moments into that routine, I felt a telltale tap-tap at the end of my monofilament line -- small sensations, but like jolts of electricity to an angler. I reeled up the slack, lowered the rod tip, and then powered it all backward as I drove the hook home.

Little did I know that I was connecting with a 7 1/2-pound largemouth -- the biggest bass of my angling career at the time.

Ah, yes: the power of plastics -- especially when springtime's spawning bass are on the prowl in shallow waters across the Southern states.

From the Texas-rigged plastic Jelly worms, Crème worms and Mister Twisters that helped start this lure craze to today's myriad of tube baits, salty craws, Power Worms, Ring Fries, lizards, jerkbaits and pork-resembling chunk trailers for jigs, there's certainly no shortage of soft-plastic baits at your local tackle shop. And the reason for this plethora of plastics? Simple: When they're fished the right way at the right time in the right place, plastic baits can result in your landing a bass of bragging-sized proportions!

Want to get in on the big-bass-catching magic of the ongoing soft-plastic lure revolution? Then read on!

THE JIG-AND-PIG

OK: Technically speaking, a jig isn't itself a soft-plastic bait -- but the trailer on its hook certainly can be. And just as solid as the argument for the Texas-rigged plastic worm as one of history's best all-time bass-catching lures is the claim that can be advanced for the jig-and-pig combo as one of fishing history's most versatile all-time lure selections.

Given the right circumstances, the jig-and-pig sporting a soft-plastic trailer can prove enormously effective at just about any time of the year: deadly in the cold months when worked around the rocks and dropoffs along which wintering bass can be found; wonder-working in the spring, when bassin' is a shallow-water affair in a cover- and-vegetation-rich environment; and super in the summer, when you'll pitch one into a hole in the middle of a hydrilla bed and wait to see how quickly it gets smashed.

In fact, Bassmaster Pro Tour veteran Gary Klein -- one of the greatest pro bass anglers of all time -- confided to me in a conversation that I had with him a couple of years back that when it came down to lure selection around this particular time of the year, the first bait he'd make sure he had in his tackle box was a 1/2-ounce black/blue Rattle Back jig.

"I like to fish target-oriented baits," he said. "Those include spinnerbaits, buzzbaits, lizards, and jigs -- lures that I can cast to a target and effectively fish that target with."

As for color combinations, it's tough to beat a black/blue, black/ brown, or black/blue/purple mixture, although at times a lighter-hued shade resembling a shad or a crawfish can work well, too.

When you fish a trailer behind any of those jigs, a plastic chunk in a variety of colors is always a solid choice. If you're looking to bulk up the bait's overall appearance in the water, attach a salty craw worm to the jig's hook; if, conversely, you're looking for a slenderer profile to pitch into tight cover, consider using a short curlytail plastic worm or a longer curlytail grub on the back of your jig.

Fishing rod

From Wikipedia,
the free encyclopedia


A fishing rod or a fishing pole is a tool used to catch fish, usually in conjunction with the sport of angling. (Sustenance and commercial fishing usually involves nets). A length of fishing line is attached to a long, flexible rod or pole: one end terminates in a hook for catching the fish. A 'fishing pole' is a simple pole or stick for suspending a line (normally fastened to the tip), with a hooked lure or bait. In contrast, 'fishing rod' refers to a more sophisticated casting tool fitted with line guides and a reel for line stowage. Fishing rods vary in action as well as length, and can be found in sizes between 24 inches and 16 feet (4.9 m). The longer the rod, the greater the mechanical advantage in casting.

I. Types of fishing rods

1. Fly Fishing
2. Spin Casting Rods
3. Spinning Rods
4. Ultra-light Rods
5. Ice Fishing Rods
6. Surf Rods

II. History of fishing rods and rod design

III. Modern Rod Design

IV. Fishing Rod "Action"


Types of fishing rods

Fly Fishing

Fly Fishing rods are long, thin, flexible fishing rods designed to cast a fly (see Fly lure), usually consisting of a hook tied with fur, feathers, foam, or other lightweight material. Originally made of split bamboo, most modern fly rods are constructed from man-made composite materials, including fiberglass, carbon/graphite, or graphite/boron composites. Instead of a weighted lure, a fly rod uses the weight of the fly line for casting, and lightweight rods are capable of casting the very smallest and lightest fly. Typically, a monofilament segment called a "leader" is tied to the fly line on one end and the fly on the other.

Each rod is sized to the fish being sought, the wind and water conditions and also to a particular weight of line: larger and heavier line sizes will cast heavier, larger flies. Fly rods come in a wide variety of line sizes, from size #0 rods for the smallest freshwater trout and panfish up to and including #16 rods[1] for large saltwater gamefish. Fly rods tend to have a single, large-diameter line guide (called a stripping guide), with a number of smaller looped guides (aka snake guides) spaced along the rod to help control the movement of the relatively thick fly line. To prevent interference with casting movements, most fly rods usually have little or no butt section (handle) extending below the fishing reel. However, the spey rod, a fly rod with an elongated rear handle, is often used for fishing either large rivers for salmon and steelhead or saltwater surf casting, using a two-handed casting technique. See Fly fishing.

Fly rods are manufactured by a number of companies and custom rod building is an active form of hobby among fly fishermen. See Fly rod building.

Spin Casting Rods

Spin casting rods are rods designed to hold a spin casting reel, which are normally mounted above the handle (See Fishing reel). Spin casting rods also have small eyes and a forefinger grip trigger. They are very similar to bait casting rods, to the point where either type of reel may be used on a particular rod.

Spinning Rods

Spinning rods are made from graphite or fiberglass with a cork or PVC foam handle, and tend to be between 5 and 8.5 feet (1.5 - 2.6 m) in length. Typically, spinning rods have anywhere from 5-8 large-diameter guides arranged along the underside of the rod to help control the line. The eyes decrease in size from the handle to the tip, with the one nearest the handle usually much larger than the rest to allow less friction as the coiled line comes off the reel. Unlike bait casting and spin casting reels, the spinning reel hangs beneath the rod rather than sitting on top, and is held in place with a sliding or locking reel seat. Spinning rods and reels are widely used in fishing for popular North American sport fish including bass, trout, pike and walleye. Longer spinning rods with elongated grip handles for two-handing casting are frequently employed for saltwater or steelhead and salmon fishing. Spinning rods are also widely used for trolling and still fishing with live bait.

Ultra-light Rods

These rods are used to fish for smaller species, they provide more sport with larger fish, or to enable fishing with lighter line and smaller lures. Though the term is commonly used to refer to spinning or spin-cast rods and tackle, fly rods in smaller line weights (size #0 - #3) have also long been utilized for ultra-light fishing, as well as to protect the thin-diameter, lightweight end section of leader, or tippet, used in this type of angling.

Ultra-light spinning and casting rods are generally shorter (4 - 5.5 feet is common) lighter, and more limber than normal rods. Tip actions vary from slow to fast, depending upon intended use. These rods usually carry 1 to 6 pound (4.5 to 27 N) test fishing line. Some ultra-light rods are capable of casting lures as light as 1/64th of an ounce - typically small spinners, wet flies, crappie jigs, tubes, or bait such as trout worms. Originally produced to bring more excitement to the sport, ultra-light spin fishing is now widely used for crappie, trout, bass, bluegill and other types of panfish.

Ice Fishing Rods

These are typically very short spinning rods, varying between 24 and 36 inches in length, used to fish through holes in the cover ice of frozen lakes, rivers and ponds.

Surf Rods

Surf casting rods resemble oversized spinning or bait casting rods with long grip handles intended for two-handed casting techniques. Generally between 10 to 14 feet (3 - 4 m) in length, surf casting rods need to be longer in order for the user cast the lure or bait beyond the breaking surf where fish tend to congregate, and sturdy enough to cast heavy weighted lures or bait needed to hold the bottom in rough water. Some surfcasters use powerful rods to cast up to six ounces of lead weight, artificial lures, and/or bait hundreds of feet.

History of fishing rods and rod design

Judging by stone inscriptions, fishing rods go back to ancient Egypt, China, Greece and Rome. Prior to widespread availability of synthetic materials, such as fiberglass and graphite composites, fishing rods were typically made from split Tonkin bamboo, Calcutta reed, or ash wood, as it was necessary that they be made light, tough, and pliable. The butts were frequently made of maple, with bored bottom; this butt outlasted several tops. Handles and grips were generally of cork, wood, or wrapped cane. Guides were made of simple wire loops or, later, loops with ring-shaped agate inserts for better wear. Even today, Tonkin split-bamboo rods are still popular in fly fishing.

Rods for travelers were made with nickel-silver metal joints, or ferrules, that could be inserted into one another forming the rod. Some of them were made to be used as a walking cane until needed for sport. Since the 1980s, with the advent of flexible, yet stiff graphite ferrules, travel rod technology has greatly advanced, and multi-piece travel rods that can be transported in a suitcase or backpack constitute a large share of the market.

Modern Rod Design

In theory, an ideal rod should gradually taper from butt to tip, be tight in all its joints, and have a smooth, progressive taper, without 'dead spots'. Modern design and fabrication techniques, along with advanced materials such as graphite and boron composites have allowed rod makers to tailor both the shape and action of fishing rods for greater casting distance, accuracy, and fish-fighting qualities. Today, fishing rods are identified by their weight (meaning the weight of line or lure required to flex a fully-loaded rod) and action (describing the location of the maximum flex along the length of the rod).

Modern fishing rods retain cork as a common material for grips. Cork is light, durable, and tends to transmit rod vibrations better than synthetic materials, although EVA foam is also used. Reel seats are often of graphite-reinforced plastic, aluminum, or wood. Guides are available in steel and titanium with a wide variety of metal alloy inserts replacing the classic agate inserts of earlier rods.

Fishing Rod "Action"

Fishing rods are rated in "Action" meaning behaviour of the rod under flex, and "Power" meaning strength of the rod.

A SLOW ACTION rod is best described as a weak rod, which can flex more toward the butt section. These rods are excellent for detecting light bites from small fish and when using light line. With this type of rod the stress from a fish is absorbed in the rod more than on the line because the rod does flex almost completely (parabolic action).

A FAST ACTION rod, if bent, is faster to return to its original neutral position. Better suitable for accurate casts and for animate artificial lures with jerking movements to simulate life of a baitfish. Fast Action rods does flex most in the tip section. Nowadays materials such as high-modulus graphite achieve exceptional strength, sensivity and fighting power.

Power value (light, medium-light, medium, medium heavy, etc.) is about lure weight and line diameter to be used: a fast and powerful muskie rod is very different from a slow and light power rod for trout fishing is small streams...

WWF Fishing Gear Competition

WWF launches fishing gear competition to reduce marine bycatch
07 Feb 2007

Gland, Switzerland – WWF has launched its third annual international Smart Gear Competition, seeking new designs for fishing gear that reduces marine bycatch — the accidental catch and related deaths of millions of marine species in nets and longlines each year.

The international competition will award a US$30,000 grand prize and two US$10,000 runner-up prizes to the designs judged to be the most practical, cost-effective methods for reducing bycatch of any species.

The competition is open to eligible entrants from any background, including fishermen, professional gear manufacturers, teachers, students, engineers, scientists and backyard inventors.

"We want to encourage people from different countries and backgrounds from around the world to enter this competition to make fishing practices smarter," says James Leape, WWF's Director General.

“WWF is working around the world to reduce the death and waste of seabirds, turtles, dolphins, juvenile fish and other animals through entanglement with fishing gear. Often the best innovations come from fishers themselves. This is a unique opportunity to hear about practical solutions to help tackle one of the greatest threats to our seas."

Last year’s winner was a New Jersey inventor who designed fishing gear that could save thousands of sharks from accidentally dying on fishing lines each year. The winner’s design uses a shark's ability to detect magnetic fields as a way to protect them by placing strong magnets just above baited hooks. The design will be tested this spring and summer in advance of potential commercial use.

The winner of the Smart Gear Competition will be decided by a diverse set of judges, including fishermen, researchers, engineers and fisheries managers from all over the world. Instructions for entering this year's competition are available at www.smartgear.org. Completed entries must be submitted by 31 July 2007.

For further information:
Tom Lalley, Media Relations Director
WWF-US
Email: Tom.Lalley@wwfus.org

Sarah Bladen, WWF Communications Manager
WWF Global Marine Programme
Email: sbladen@wwfint.org

Jo Benn, WWF Communications Manager
WWF Global Species Programme
Email: jbenn@wwfspecies.org